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First I encourage you to read the care instructions that came with the bow as this will answer your question as to what method to use. The step-through method a.k.a the Traditional method (shown below) or a bow stringer (for a longbow) is the safest way to string it. If you do Not know how to do the step-through method or use a bow stringer please visit your local archery shop and have some one show you how.
Remember:
Never step or stand on the tip or shove the tip into the ground/floor when
stringing. Doing so could
damage your bow or even break your bow. If you do not know how to do any of the
above methods
please see your local archery shop and have them show you how to string a bow
with one of the
above methods.
Below is an example of the step thru or traditional method. Many of you may already know this method and not realize it or call it something else. But PLEASE have someone show you how if you have never done this.
I offer arrows on my archery accessories page. You can also find arrows at most archery supply stores that carry traditional accessories, Academy, Out Door World, etc. Just to name a few. Not all locations carry arrows all year. It will depend on you location and time of year on how easy it will be to find arrows.
You will also need to match the spine weight (stiffness of the arrow) to your bow!!
Selecting the right spine weight:
The spine weight of your arrow should be 5 - 10# lighter than your bow if using an unbacked longbow**. (ex: if your bow is 35# @ 28", the spine weight of your arrows should be 25# to 30#) On a backed bow (ex: Bamboo backed Osage or Hickory back Cherry) you will go 5# lighter or match the draw on the bow. So if the bow is 45# then you would want 40 to 45# spined arrows.The reason for matching the spine weight of your arrows to your bow, is so that you get the max. performance out of the bow. Arrows that are to heavy (heavier than your bow) will end up mostly in the ground. Arrows that are too light (spine weight Lighter than recommended for your bow) will not fly straight, they will wobble too much in flight.
**On Recurves (true recurves) the spine weight should be 5 - 10# heavier to compensate for the force in which the arrow is discharged, as it loses an arrow faster.
Helpful Hints:
Arrows should be inspected for crakes or abrasions before each use. Do Not use damaged arrows!! | |
Arrows should have the base of the feathers (fletchings) wrapped at the bottom (1/4" of the feather and about 1/2" of the shaft just below the feathers) of the feathers with thread, sinew, or tape to prevent them from sticking into the hand. (when there is not a shelf / arrow rest on the bow being used). | |
Feathers will cut the hand, please consider using a glove or buying arrows with vanes. |
The string is the right length for your bow. The strings are new so they stretch a bit when you first get them. So you will need to adjust the brace height (directions are in your care instructions) several times. The fastest way to do this is twist it down to 4 fingers past the nock (string groves) then string the bow and pull the bow about half way back several times, then let it sit strung for about 5 minutes. Unstring and reset the brace height to 6" you may lose about 1/2" as it finishes stretching. You may have to repeat the process a few times on heavier bows (45# and up) (see the example picture of what proper brace looks like)
99% of the Jewelry (earrings, necklaces, barrettes, hair pins, hair quills etc.) Are hand made by S. Yeager (me) a*k*a "Lady Kee" hence the name of my business Kee's Traditions. I hand make every piece so each is unique and will be slightly different from others that look similar to it.
Returns are only on a per item/customer basis. Please see my Policies page for details on warranty and return policies as the policies vary per group of items.
Please see out Contact Page, We will keep a list of upcoming events posted there. If there is not anything posted, we do not yet have any events planed.
Policies and regulations vary by state and sometimes county. Below is the regulations for the state of Texas.
Archery and Crossbows
Only the archery and crossbow equipment prescribed in this section may be used for taking game animals or game birds. Crossbows are not lawful for taking migratory game birds. The prescribed archery and crossbow equipment may be used during any general open season. Archery and crossbow equipment may not be used to hunt deer during the Muzzleloader-Only Deer Season. It is unlawful to be in possession of a firearm while hunting with a broadhead HUNTING point during the Archery-Only season, except a person licensed to carry a concealed handgun in Texas may carry a concealed handgun. NOTE: A firearm may be possessed in camp, in a motor vehicle, or while hunting lawful game other than whitetail or mule deer and turkey (e.g., exotics, feral hogs, squirrels).
Nongame Animals: Archery and crossbows are lawful for non-protected nongame animals.
Longbows, compound bows, or recurved bows:
must have a 35**-(pound, lbs.) minimum draw weight at 28 inches of draw at the time of hunting, when used to hunt turkey and all game animals other than squirrel. | |
that are equipped with a device that allows the bow to be locked at full or partial draw are lawful during any season when lawful archery equipment may be used. (can have/ not required) |
Crossbow:
Any person may use a crossbow to hunt game animals or game birds (except migratory game birds) during a general open season or Eastern spring turkey season. Telescopic sights are lawful.
ONLY a person with an upper-limb disability* may use a crossbow to hunt deer and turkey during the Archery Only Open Season, provided the person, while hunting, has in their immediate possession a physician's statement certifying the extent of the disability.
*An upper-limb disability is a permanent loss of the use of fingers, hand, or arm in a manner that renders the person incapable of using lawful archery equipment.
A crossbow is lawful for game animals and game birds (except migratory game birds and as provided above), provided:
the crossbow has a minimum pull of 125 pounds (#, Lbs.); | |
the crossbow has a mechanical safety; and | |
the crossbow stock is not less than 25 inches in length. |
Projectiles (Arrows and Crossbow Bolts):
While hunting game animals and game birds, a projectile may not be poisoned, drugged, or explosive.
When used to hunt turkey and all game animals other than squirrels, a projectile must be equipped with a broadhead hunting point that is at least 7/8-inch in width (upon impact) and has a minimum of 2 cutting edges. A mechanical broadhead must begin to open upon impact and, when open, must be a minimum of 7/8-inch in width.
An archer may have arrows or crossbow bolts with field, target, or judo points in the quiver with the broadhead hunting points.
As Seen on Texas State Parks & Wildlife Webpage:
http://www.tpwd.state.tx.us/publications/annual/hunt/means/#archery
**I limit has been dropped in Texas as of March 2008!!! it is now below 40#, exact weight required is unknown at this time*** As of 2009 - April The legal limit in Texas is 35# @ 28" the bow may not be less than 35# @ 28" - We still recommend 45# and above for a cleaner kill
To determine your Draw length:
You
need a tape measure or a dowel that has been marked at every inch, make a fist with you left hand hold it straight
out to the side and look toward it. Measure from your fist to the
corner of your mouth (your right hand should be anchored at your mouth)
Draw the tape measure as you would an arrow. What ever the measurement
is; that should be your draw length. (follow the instructions in
reverse if left handed).
See the picture below: Notice how and where he is drawing too
Helpful Hints:
Make sure the fletching* on your arrows are good. | |
Also it may be a good idea to wear a leather glove or hand guard when shooting this way; if possible. | |
A shelf can be safely added to the side of a traditional style bow (one with no built in shelf) by wrapping a wedge of wood, a shaped piece of bone, or a stiff wedge of belt leather to the appropriate side with jute, leather or just about any pliable material. (Please contact us for instructions on how to do this if your not sure how) |
Well first you will need to answer a couple of questions. Depending on your answers depends on what you should be looking for in a new bow.
The Questions
What are you intending to use it for? Lets elaborate: Are you wanting the hunt hay bails or moving targets? If moving targets are the Animals? or are you participating in Combat Archery (SCA, Amtgard, LARP) Answers:
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What is your draw length? This to will determine what is available. Most
people have a 27 to 28" draw. If you don't know your draw length please
click the following link to see How do I determine draw length
. Once you have determined what weight you are looking for and what draw
length you need. | |||||||||
How often do you shoot? Are you just getting into
archery? Or have you shot before and are getting back into it? These things
depend on what type of bow you should look for:
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Remember these are just guide lines to help you determine what you may be looking for, feel free to drop us an e-mail and as questions. We will gladly help you figure out what you need or want even if its not from us!
The measurements provided for each armguard are the actual measurements of the leather. On the ones with the lace and / or concho closures
To determine if it will fit you, you will need
to look at the measurements.
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If you are double jointed in your elbow and it hyper-extends when you put pressure on it and you've tried holding the bow different etc. You may want to consider a buckle guard or combo Guard to cover your elbow. As they are designed to help the string keep moving and are a thicker leather |
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